So there we were, 650 metres above the beach town of Amalfi and the next bus was not for at least another 2 hours (if it showed up at all). So what choice did we have?
Retire back to the gorgeous Beata Solitudo hostel or man up and walk under the scorching summer sun?
Turned out to be one of the best decisions of our trip.
Agerola to Amalfi
The best place to start this tale is probably with us waiting at the bus stop. Cole being the super organised OCD traveller that he is had us at the bus stop 5 minutes before the expected departure departure. The locals in Agerola, who are well known for being so laidback that they are nearly horizontal, had changed the bus timetable and no one had bothered to update the schedule.
40 minutes later we gave up.
Stuck ridiculously far away from the beach we longed for and with no other option we headed for the local track. This track was actually used in the past as the only route to between Agerola to Amalfi with locals carrying their goods up and down each day to sell at the markets. Luckily for us it was downhill only.
Bounding down the first few steps only 100m from the hostel we were eager to catch our first glimpse of the Tyrrhenian Sea. And we were not disappointed. As the track rounded the first corner the view split open before our eyes and we were rewarded with the most jaw dropping view of this dramatic coastline.
The sunlight danced across the unnaturally blue water that seemed to stretch in every direction forever. While the town of Agerola at our backs disappeared behind the ragged cliff face.
Lizards scuttled playfully over the path. Tree branches dangled down in front of our faces while overgrown weeds tugged at our legs through the many cracks. Ruins of ancient stone buildings long forgotten peeked out from amongst the trees.
It was as if we had stepped into a world that no one else inhabited.
After 40 minutes of hard slog the landscape changes as you reach the outskirts of small villages. Houses cluster together perched in places you would never think to build a house. Their balconies hanging over the 500 foot drop.
Lemon groves hug the precipices and the road starts its hairpin turn decent down the mountain.
Here the path we had been following disappeared and instead countless alleyways and stairs wound between the houses. There didn’t seem to be a wrong path as they all led down which was the only way we wanted to go.
Closer to the shoreline the views become even more stunning. Narrow stretches of beach appear from their hiding places tucked into the shadows of the cliffs. Each only accessible by boat.
The Agerola to Amalfi walk takes you right to the heart of Amalfi town. Kicking off our dusty shoes we headed straight for a well deserved swim. Followed by a refreshing gelato ice cream.
While the walk is not as long or as physically demanding as the well known Path of the Gods, it’s a quick alternative with spectacular views. Plus you will escape the crowds and have the path virtually to yourself.
Where to stay in Agerola – Beata Solitudo
If you want a slightly cheaper option than Positano or Amalfi then staying in Agerola is a great option. And the best place to stay in Agerola would be Beata Solitudo.
With outstanding views along the Amalfi coastline there are plenty of buses to and from Agerola. Or you can try out the Agerola to Amalfi walk above.
Beata Solitudo has all the options for travelling couples from the campground and backpackers for a budget option to the luxurious Bed and Breakfast private rooms that we stayed in.
The spacious private rooms have their own bathrooms and access to a far superior kitchen and lounge than the budget options. We loved cooking all our local ingredients here each night.
The free breakfast in the morning was probably the best we have ever had in a hostel situation. Three types of cereal, fresh home-grown fruit, croissants and pastries galore and tea, juice and coffee to wash it all down. Brilliant.
WiFi is free but only available in the common areas.
We really didn’t see much of the staff as we were out exploring every day but when we did chat they were extremely helpful. Perfect if you want a relaxing retreat as you will be left alone if you want to be.
In the private common room there was no social atmosphere at all. However the dorms below and campground out the back looked like a bit more fun.
It is really far from the coastline so if you come to enjoy the beaches you will have to catch the bus or walk down. Also, while not really the hostels fault as the bus timetable changed, they could have had an updated timetable as the one we read was completely wrong.
Per person: $35 Euros for a private room and $13 Euros for a 8 bed mixed dorm room.
Beata Solitudo has been the best accommodation we have stayed in a long time. We wish we had more time there and even tried to book extra days but they were sold out. If you want a relaxing retreat then this is the place. If you want to party then head to the way more expensive Positano area.
Disclaimer: We were guests of HostelWorld but as always our thoughts are always our own.