Life or Death – Running with the Bulls

| July 30, 2012 | 33 Comments

Running with the Bulls during the Festival de San Fermin was one of the scariest, yet exhilarating, adventures we have ever done.

San Fermin Running with the Bulls still

Shaky still image from our video while running with the bulls

Fear is a funny thing.

It has paralysed me when faced with heights. Kept me awake when I was younger and too afraid to sleep in the dark. And made me lash out when worried I might lose the ones I love.

I have even seen fear on friends and strangers faces when they have faced similar situations or confronted their own stresses. But never have I seen fear etched on to so many faces at the same exact moment.

Never have I stood looking in to those faces and known that my face shows the exact same feeling. A moment when the next 2 minutes could mean life or death.

Until now.

Running with the Bulls Pamplona, Festival of San Fermin, Festival de San Fermin

Barricaded shops decorated for the running with the bulls

Running with the Bulls

There is no escape from it as I am walled in by apartment blocks, shop front windows and 3 metre high wooden barriers packed with photographers along the entire length. At one end lies the relative safety of the bull ring pulsating with the cheers of the crowd who have partied all night. While at the other end a dozen wild bulls paw the stony ground looking for freedom.

Unfortunately I am standing in their path. This is where the fear comes from.

Adorned in white with a slash of vivid red at our throats and waists we stand jostling for space. Elbow to elbow with thousands of other thrill seekers, tourists and locals alike, I begin to wonder what the hell possessed me to go running with the bulls as I stand on this narrow 825m stretch of cobbled street at the crack of dawn.

Running with the Bulls in Pamplona

A bit of false bravado before the running with the bulls

Narrow streets in Pamplona for Festival de San Fermin, Festival of San Fermin, Running with the Bulls

Running with the Bulls route

Only my thoughts accompany me before being obliterated as the first firework is fired signalling the release of the bulls.

Silence descends for a split second before the crowd surges as if pushed by an invisible hand. Knowing I have a few seconds before the raging bulls reach me I stand my ground. Arms flail and the ground trembles beneath the thousands of feet pounding the uneven cobbled street as people begin to panic.

Abruptly a roar from the crowd is unleashed as the bulls sprint into sight. My fear evaporates and is replaced by pure adrenaline. Blood surges through my muscles and the world seems to slow around me.

Spinning on my heels caught in the rush of the crowd I am propelled forward away from the snorting beasts. Fear has gripped many and it’s now I realise that it was right to send Adela away from me as there is no chance I could help her if she ends up in danger.

It is every person for themselves when fear takes over.

Hands grapple and claw at one another as everyone fights for space away from the middle of the road. Wrenched off my feet I stumble but catch myself from falling beneath the unrelenting feet of runners.

All too suddenly the shoulder to shoulder crowd splits like Moses parting the Red Sea. It can only be the Bulls. I can hear their hooves on the cobbles before I can see them. The sound spurs the crowd on faster again.

Glancing to my left I spot them race past within spitting distance.

It’s not over and there isn’t a chance to stop as the crowd continues to run.

Sprinting madly after the bulls we run into a moment of darkness under the stadium entrance. Light suddenly bursts across my face as the crowd roars again and again as I join the celebrating masses in the middle of the bull ring. Blood pulses in my ears and my heart threatens to crash through my ribcage.

Clay and stones grind under my feet as I scan the crowd. It’s no longer fear that creases my face but elation, celebration and relief when I spot my brother, friends and thankfully Adela emerging from the crowd.

San Fermin Festival, Festival of San Fermin, Running with the Bulls, Festival de San Fermin,

Nervous about facing our fears before the running with the bulls

Check out our Running with the Bulls video!

Not all people agree that the San Fermin Festival should be allowed to go ahead largely due to animal cruelty. We wrote a post about the controversy surrounding Bullfighting in Spain and the Festival de San Fermin.

If you want to join the Festival de San Fermin next year or any other wild festivals in Europe then book with our partners Busabout.

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Category: Adventure Travel, Europe

About the Author ()

Cole is one half of New Zealand's leading adventure travel blogging couple who have been wearing out their jandals around the world since 2009. He loves any adventure activities and anything to do with the water whether it is Surfing, Diving, Swimming, Snorkeling or just lounging nearby on the beach. You can follow Cole on Google+. Or consider following us via RSS Feed, Twitter, Facebook and subscribe to our Newsletter.

Comments (33)

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  1. Gina says:

    Great account of your experience running with the bulls. I don’t think I’ll ever be brave enough to do it, but it sounds like an unforgettable time!
    Gina recently posted..Photo Tour Friday: LondonMy Profile

  2. Laurence says:

    I don’t know to be honest. If you want adrenaline, this seems like a complicated and unnecessarily cruel way to go about it. On the other hand, eating meat (which I do, happily), ain’t exactly an animal friendly sport, not is it necessary for my survival. I do it, basically, because I enjoy it. Morals. Weird things eh?
    Laurence recently posted..Travelling with Wimdu: A Fitou adventureMy Profile

    • We felt comfortable doing it because it has such a long standing tradition in Spain but agree with you Laurence. For example we would NEVER eat whale meat in countries where they still hunt them legally but we would do this. Will have a follow up post soon about the bull fights we attended.

  3. Jakori says:

    I have always wanted to run with the bulls but am afraid I may fall and get trampled. It looks like you had a great time. I like the pictures. Great post

  4. It’s great fun isn’t it! :) At that moment when the bulls come, it really is every man and woman for themselves, there is nothing you can do except keep running and hope you don’t fall over! :) Did you have fun playing with the cows afterwards?
    Jarmo @ Arctic Nomad recently posted..Recipe for Thames Bacon CruiseMy Profile

    • Someone described it to me before the run as the best and worst experience they have ever had. So true. The bullring was crazier than the actual run with so many idiots about. So glad we did it though.

  5. Glad you made it out unharmed! As cool as it sounds this is one I don’t think I’d risk participating in. I’ve seen too many photos of the unlucky guys who got horned! :(
    Escaping Abroad recently posted..Ziplining In BelizeMy Profile

  6. Loved reading this piece, could definitely feel what it must be like! I’d never have done it, us being vegetarian/super animal lovers and all, but after I got rammed by that cow, I’ve felt how painful even small horns are plus the crushing blow of hitting the ground. i’d rather not feel one of the huge horns piercing my leg :) Can’t wait to read your thoughts about the experience that you mention above.
    Jess | GlobetrotterGirls recently posted..What I Wonder When I Wonder: I Think A Podcast Saved My Life (plus a chance to win $300)My Profile

  7. Arti says:

    It sounds crazy when lives are in danger in the name of a festival!! I certainly would never dare to take part in the Bull Run!
    Arti recently posted..Happy Raksha BandhanMy Profile

  8. I love reading your story about the bulls. I’ve been to Spain and bullfighting does turn a lot of people off. I think it can be rather cruel. However, it is definitely a cultural difference.

    As for the running part, that is definitely an adrenaline rush. Being the athlete and super fast runner that I am, I am not sure I would attempt this as my feet and coordination don’t always get along. However, loved watching this as others do it though.

    Did you happen to meet Dave and Deb of The Planet D? They also did this same bull run (not sure if you did it the same day though).
    Jeremy Branham recently posted..The Queen Anne Bed and Breakfast – the best hotel in DenverMy Profile

    • We didn’t see Dave and Deb unfortunately as they were there a few days before us. Really want to meet them though!

      Was so much fun and such a rush. Not sure I could ever do it again though as I think I used most of my luck up during the run haha.

  9. You wild man! Running with the bulls is a thing Eric and I have contemplated but we’ve never been there at the right time–not sure what our final decision would be if we were…Can’t wait for the video.

    I know running with the bulls is controversial like circuses or zoos or bull fighting but I appreciate your documentation of the experience. That’s our job as travel bloggers and we struggled with the same pros and cons when we blogged about watching the world’s best horseback bull fighter in Mexico: http://trans-americas.com/blog/2010/06/pablo-hermoso-mendoza/
    Karen @ Trans-Americas Journey recently posted..100 Years of the Calgary Stampede – Calgary, CanadaMy Profile

    • You guys would definitely run Karen. Getting caught up in the atmosphere is what makes it so exciting. They take it so seriously there and was awesome to be a part of it.

      Thanks for the support as well Karen. Was tempted not to write anything but we feel the same as you. If we didn’t write about these experiences (which so many people get to do) then what is the point of writing in the first place?

  10. Audrey says:

    Brave one guys! I think I’d be the one watching the crowds run from the safety of a balcony. ;)
    Audrey recently posted..Gagwonsa Buddhist Temple | Cheonan, South KoreaMy Profile

  11. How terrifying! I don’t think I’d ever do this.. mostly because I’m 4’10″ and would probably get tramples in the crowd. :P
    Christy @ Technosyncratic recently posted..Travel Blog? SOLD.My Profile

  12. Payje says:

    Oh my gosh TERRIFYING! I don’t know what I would have done in that situation, probably just froze up and peed my pants and cried or something… what a cool thing to have done!
    Payje recently posted..Whale Watching in Resurrection Bay, Seward AlaskaMy Profile

  13. Whew. That was some nerve-wracking reading. Wonderful job taking me into the moment. :)
    Diana Edelman recently posted..Help yourself to a Slice of Swedish HospitalityMy Profile

  14. Ali says:

    Love how you wrote this one. I went to the running of the bulls in 2000 when I was in Spain for a study abroad program. We stayed in Pamplona for 2 nights, partied in the streets until it was time for the running, and then watched from the end of the line, right outside the stadium everyone runs into. That was enough for me. There’s no way I could handle actually participating. Definitely an interesting experience though. I’m glad you survived.
    Ali recently posted..How to Travel Carry-On OnlyMy Profile

    • Good effort partying all night! We were staying in a campground out of town so had to head back there around 3am each day. So much fun though being on the streets. Glad we survived as well :)

  15. I don’t think I ever want to do this, but I’d love to go watch.
    Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..6 Tips for Surviving the Four Day Tour to the Salar de UyuniMy Profile

  16. Alexandra says:

    You’re way braver than I! I would never do this! I’m more the drinking on the sidelines type ;)
    Alexandra recently posted..Capture the Colour: Frolicking Across the RainbowMy Profile

  17. Thrill to read this. Love the way you narrate your experience.
    It seems to me that I am also running with you.

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